AltaRoma Alta Moda FW 2017-18, Greta Boldini
Acceptance, forgiveness and redemption are the three key concepts on which the F/W 2017-2018 collection of the Greta Boldini brand are based. The show kicks off with the appearance of a leading lady who, like a moth, appears to have no fear of braving the fire of life. She is an energetic, self-confident woman determined to conquer the world with her sensitive beauty. This concept stems from a footnote about war by Alessandro Baricco entitled ‘Un’altra bellezza’, and from the assonance of the word ‘bellum’ with absolute beauty (belleza). This first appearance is followed by rapid and confusing impressions of the world of clothing, where references to Grosz and his crude, lifelike art create a perfect balance between the working class and the elite, culminating stylishly with references to the solemn yet opulent work of Van Eyck. The show is paced by a spiritual tempo that shocks and amazes. The collection makes an impact thanks to the presence of pleated skirts and dresses that sometimes gently skim a woman’s ankles, in a nostalgic dialogue between the dress and the body, where ever-present sensuality is sophisticated but never vulgar. The 1940s return with a vengeance in the silhouettes of the entire collection. This applies, in particular, to the construction of outerwear, borrowed extensively from the male wardrobe acknowledging the tailored elegance typical of those years. Deliberately exaggerated, the drop shoulder exists with oiled rain-proof fabrics, boucle wool cloth and the purest cashmere. Absolute must-haves from the collection include the re-engineering of the Barbour jacket, skillfully transformed into a couture garment without reference to its original use and function. Fabrics act as a backdrop to the entire collection, beginning with viscose/ silks that celebrate embroidered tulle and then again pure silk crepe de chine, lace and chiffon which end the journey with a meeting with jacquard fil coupè organza. Another striking feature is the experimental embroidery dedicated to the beauty of black glass and transparent crystals, instantly conjuring up the idea of the 1940 chandeliers that decorated the homes of the haute bourgeoisie. The appearance of fur including mink, fox and Mongolia, especially when combined with mohair or mixed wool and cotton sponge, literally takes the audience’s breath away. Instinctive and striking, the colour palette is warm and dramatic thanks to the presence of anthracite, tangerine, chianti, in addition to moss green, foundation pink (phard) and wisteria, which gives the nod to shades of petroleum, grey and shocking pink. Accessories, a mixture of strong, striking jewelry and structured bags, mark an important collaboration with two big name brands, Iosselliani and Cecchi De Rossi; a perfect marriage that pervades the entire collection. Beauty is determined by the focused study between the meaning of significant and significance; culture and inspiration; past and presence; in spite of and if. This is what the designer, Alexander Flagella decides to offer with a Fall/Winter collection certain to impress even the most discerning individuals.
ph: S. Dragone - G. Palma / Luca Sorrentino
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