Catwalk

During AltaRoma, the italian haute couture fashion week, the ready to wear brand, Greta Boldini, presented its new s/s 2018 collection that is characterized by a sort of dualism, based on refreshing couture vision of a simple elegance devoid of frills, and which blends together serenity and levity, as well as tradition and the contemporary. The brand does so by drawing together a clerically inspired wardrobe with technical outerwear, and a sartorial flair with sportswear, thus turning on their heads numerous stylistic conventions. Ergo, long dresses turn into day-wear, while the practical and comfy knitwear, adorned with transparent nylon yokes, becomes ideal for cocktails. The evening dresses are protected against the sudden summer downpours by nylon raincoats, and egg-shell coated wood buttons embellish the austere cotton jackets.

The colour palette also hearkens to this Nature / Baroque contrast. The landscapes of Basilicata captured by Franco Fontana glow with the warmth of many rustic tints, in stark contradistinction to the pontifical solemnity of cardinal red, ivory and the powerful black colour blocks.

The dresses are in pure silk, tule, macramé laces and fresh poplin. The ever-present embroidery lends a sophisticated, ethnic touch.

Mood:  Nature / Baroque contrast
Lenght: mini, midi, lomg
Breadth: skinny or comfy, perfect to enhancheand mark the feminine shapes
Colors: red, ivory, black, dirty white
Fabrics: cotton, linen, nylon, silk, chiffon, organza, tulle, lace 

Ph: F. Fior / Luca. Sorrentino

Acceptance, forgiveness and redemption are the three key concepts on which the F/W 2017-2018 collection of the Greta Boldini brand are based.  The show kicks off with the appearance of a leading lady who, like a moth, appears to have no fear of braving the fire of life. She is an energetic, self-confident woman determined to conquer the world with her sensitive beauty. This concept stems from a footnote about war by Alessandro Baricco entitled ‘Un’altra bellezza’, and from the assonance of the word ‘bellum’ with absolute beauty (belleza). This first appearance is followed by rapid and confusing impressions of the world of clothing, where references to Grosz and his crude, lifelike art create a perfect balance between the working class and the elite, culminating stylishly with references to the solemn yet opulent work of Van Eyck. The show is paced by a spiritual tempo that shocks and amazes. The collection makes an impact thanks to the presence of pleated skirts and dresses that sometimes gently skim a woman’s ankles, in a nostalgic dialogue between the dress and the body, where ever-present sensuality  is sophisticated but never vulgar.   The 1940s return with a vengeance in the silhouettes of the entire collection. This applies, in particular, to the construction of outerwear, borrowed extensively from the male wardrobe acknowledging the tailored elegance typical of those years. Deliberately exaggerated, the drop shoulder exists with oiled rain-proof fabrics, boucle wool cloth and the purest cashmere. Absolute must-haves from the collection include the re-engineering of the Barbour jacket, skillfully transformed into a couture garment without reference to its original use and function. Fabrics act as a backdrop to the entire collection, beginning with viscose/ silks that celebrate embroidered tulle and then again pure silk crepe de chine, lace and chiffon which end the journey with a meeting with jacquard fil coupè organza.  Another striking feature is the experimental embroidery dedicated to the beauty of black glass and transparent crystals, instantly conjuring up the idea of the 1940 chandeliers that decorated the homes of the haute bourgeoisie.  The appearance of fur including mink, fox and Mongolia, especially when combined with mohair or mixed wool and cotton sponge, literally takes the audience’s breath away.  Instinctive and striking, the colour palette is warm and dramatic thanks to the presence of anthracite, tangerine, chianti, in addition to moss green, foundation pink (phard) and wisteria, which gives the nod to shades of petroleum, grey and shocking pink. Accessories, a mixture of strong, striking jewelry and structured bags, mark an important collaboration with two big name brands, Iosselliani and Cecchi De Rossi; a perfect marriage that pervades the entire collection. Beauty is determined by the focused study between the meaning of significant and significance; culture and inspiration; past and presence; in spite of and if. This is what the designer, Alexander Flagella decides to offer with a Fall/Winter collection certain to impress even the most discerning individuals.   

ph: S. Dragone - G. Palma / Luca Sorrentino

 AltaRoma Haute Couture Rome FW 2016-17, Greta Boldini 

An attentive study of the concept of slips, combined in this case with outerwear and low-backed dresses, renders the contours of the silhouette alluring. Once more sartorial cuts and a lightness that is sophisticated thanks fabrics such as cotton jacquards, macramé lace, satin, silk georgettes, organza, cotton tulles and viscose cady. A multi-coloured world of Marabou, rooster and guinea fowl plumage captivates the eye, while raffia trimmings and viscose fringing. The 3D embroidery enhanced the silhouette thanks mother of pearl sequins and glass beads.

Mood: A conceptual study of sartorial tecniques
Lenght: mini, midi, long
Breadth: soft volumes that touches lightly the silhouette
Colors: black, white, orange, pink, grey, gold
Fabrics: cotton jacquards, macramé lace, satin, silk georgettes, organza, cotton tulles and viscose cady.